Southern Comfort

I grew up a native of Los Angeles, a fourth generation Angelino on my father’s side.  The roots of my soul however, grow deep in a place that I have never actually lived.  My mother, and her side of my family tree, originated in the South, and thus those were the lessons I learned of food and family and fun times.

Food was indeed an offering of sorts to anyone who was fortunate enough to wander into our home.  The influences of my mother, my grandmother and my mother’s sister, Mayme, are what have shaped so much of what has come out of my kitchen, out of my heart, and into the food offered my family and friends.  I learned from them early on to treat family as guests and guests as family.  Then everyone feels they are special and important.  Of course, platters of fried chicken and biscuits, simmering pots of beans, and freezers of homemade ice cream and coconut cakes that ooze with love seem to work for just about anyone who needs a dose of nurturing.

Maybe it is that these foods aren’t quick cooked, aren’t instant.  They take time and those willing to give of their time to prepare them send a message to the ones for whom they have been prepared that they are worth the effort.

The fragrance of my mother and grandmother’s kitchen, still lingers long in my memory.  And among the favorite smells that came wafting out of that kitchen, was the smell of fried chicken and biscuits.   It is still my most favorite meal.  The one I would decidedly refer to as my favorite ‘comfort food”.   I think I am probably not alone in this, as even among my friends who have never been to the South, much less lived there, nearly everyone has fond food memories of fried chicken.  I think The Colonel has something to do with that.

Most people have warm memories of their childhood that involve a ‘bucket’ of chicken on the table at family gatherings or at picnics.  It is hard to find anyone who doesn’t like fried chicken, yet for some reason very few people I know, outside the South, want to attempt to make it.   It is NOT difficult….why else would it be such a staple in Southern homes?  But there is a secret to frying chicken.   My mother taught it to me, and her mother taught it to her.   It is a secret that was memorialized in Kathryn Stockett’s book The Help.   She knew the secret to great fried chicken is…..Crisco.  “…ain’t just for frying. You ever get a sticky something stuck in your hair, like gum?…That’s right, Crisco. Spread this on a baby’s bottom, you won’t even know what diaper rash is…shoot, I seen ladies rub it under they eyes and on they husband’s scaly feet…Clean the goo from a price tag, take the squeak out a door hinge. Lights get cut off, stick a wick in it and burn it like a candle….And after all that, it’ll still fry your chicken.”

So sometime soon, do your family or some friends a favor and try this simple and delicious meal.  I think you will be pleasantly surprised and create some good food memories of your own.  Just remember that what you are doing is offering love in the form of food to those you are cooking for.   Though you may not be from the South, you can cook with a “southern attitude”.   Southern cooking is not about entertaining;  it is not a performance in which the cook seeks to impress his or her guests with culinary skill.  The focus is not on the cook but rather on those who receive the gift of food being offered.  Any food prepared and offered in this manner is then a gift of true hospitality, warmth, love and above all else…Southern Comfort.

Fried Chicken

1 chicken cut up (or a package of your favorite chicken pieces)
2 cups all purpose flour
2 Tablespoons salt
2 teaspoons pepper
1 cup whole milk
1 3 lb. can Crisco
* See notes below

In a deep pot or dutch oven, melt a can of Crisco on medium high heat.  While the Crisco is heating, mix the flour, salt and pepper together in a wide bottomed bowl or baking dish.  Put the milk in another wide bottomed bowl. My mother always removes the skin from the chicken, so I do too, but it isn’t necessary.  (If you have a whole cut-up chicken don’t worry about skinning the wings – just leave the skin on).   Taking each piece of chicken, drag it in the flour until it is covered.   Then dip it in the milk on both sides.   Don’t worry if most of the flour seems to come off;  some of it will still be on there.  Now dredge (drag) it through the flour again completely covering the piece of chicken in flour.   Set aside until all the pieces have been coated.

When you have all your chicken ready carefully drop the first 5 pieces, one at a time into the hot Crisco.   The fat will bubble up as the chicken goes in so do this carefully.   Almost immediately you will see the “crust” beginning to form as the flour will start to harden up in the hot fat.

When the chicken looks to be a very light brown color, put the lid on the pan, reduce the heat to medium low and cook for about 5-7 minutes.  This will cook the chicken all the way through without burning the crust.  After 5-7 minutes remove the lid and return the flame to medium high heat.  Continue cooking until the chicken crust is a golden brown.  When this batch is done, remove each piece with tongs from the pan and place them on a rack in a single layer in an oven at 200 degrees.  This will keep the chicken moist and warm without losing the crispness of the crust while you cook the rest of the chicken.  Warm a platter in the oven to serve the chicken on when it is all cooked.   Now make some memories and enjoy!

* Some notes:

1. The deep frying of the chicken will actually do the opposite of what you would think.  Instead of making the chicken greasy, the deep pan of hot fat sears the chicken crust and cooks the chicken more rapidly so it does not absorb as much fat as slow cooking it in a shallow pan.

2. It sounds like a lot of salt added to the flour but the chicken actually gets so little flour/salt on it that it isn’t overly salty at all.

3. It is important that the Crisco be really good and hot before you put the chicken in because the cold chicken will immediately drop the temperature of the Crisco and if it isn’t hot enough you will end up with soggy chicken.  You can test to see if the Crisco is hot enough by dropping a small piece of the skin in the pan.  If it bubbles up right away it is good and hot.   If not, continue heating a bit longer and try again.